Mallorca, let me introduce you!
It was still far from the beach season, but I really wanted to go to warmer climes! Especially in the Mediterranean! I, as always, was torn between Italy-Spain-Portugal. Spain won, because of the best price offer for tickets! I dreamed of Mallorca for a long time, but somehow the trip shifted and shifted. And finally, the puzzle has come together, and I'm flying to Palma de Mallorca for the weekend! For 3 nights. The goal is excursion, well, exploration.
Arrived at 8 pm, warm: +18C! The air is full of scents of flowers! Haven't figured out yet, but I already love it! Tourists are light, and the locals are in down jackets and boots! Smiled! Even dogs in coats! Freeze, poor people! I checked into the hotel, quickly hung things in the closet, took a swim - and into the night. Walk, breathe, and dine. Three minutes walk from my hotel - Passeig des Born, this is such a street, very similar to the Rambla. And by the way, Palma also has its own Rambla, and flowers are also sold everywhere on it. But I liked my Born even more. So, this Born is full of restaurants and cafes. Walked around 3-4, read the menu. Everything is somehow wrong. Either a bias in a pastry shop, then in fast food, then prices go off scale. But experienced tourists know that it is worth going a little deeper into the alleys, a little away from the main streets, and you will definitely stumble upon a “folk” restaurant, ardently adored by the locals. That's how I accidentally stumbled upon Restaurante La Botana. I look - the people are dark and dark and 90% are Spaniards. I don’t know if they are locals or visitors, but Spaniards. Even the table had to wait. I ordered lamb ribs, they brought salad and potatoes with them, as well as bread and olives as appetizers. They are always served in anticipation of the main course, but you will definitely be asked whether to bring or not, because. they are included in the bill. But the price is so symbolic that it's not even worth thinking about! Something 1.25 € or close to it. And I love olives! I liked everything about this restaurant: the food, the atmosphere, the service, and the bill! For appetizers, a main course and 4 glasses of wine, they brought me a bill of 16 €. And if someone says that it's expensive in Spain, don't believe it! Although there are restaurants that are both more expensive and pretentious, you can eat on any budget.
The next morning, already at 9, I went out to get acquainted with the capital of the island. I usually take a sightseeing ride in a sightseeing double car. The City Sightseeing website indicated that the first bus leaves at 9:30. In fact, it turned out at 10:00. Well, nothing, I walked around the S´ Hort del Rei square, which is located at the foot of the cathedral. The square was very photogenic! The route of the red double-decker bus covers all the most iconic sights of Palma and, what is nice, the narration is conducted in Russian too. Issue price: 17 € for an adult. If you have tickets from previous City Sightseeing tours, no matter from which cities and countries, present them before buying, they will give a 10% discount. From one person, the benefit seems to be not obvious and little tangible, but from the family - yes. I rode with them all day, as I left on the first bus, so with the last one at 18:00 I returned. The Hop On - Hop Off system is very convenient! Everything I wanted to see in Palma, I saw! True, I managed to get into the Cathedral only on the fifth attempt. How I wanted to go there, but whenever I came, it was always closed! Eprst! And, it would seem, Easter, well, what to be open is the Cathedral. God Himself, so to speak, commanded! However, for some reason that I still do not understand, the cathedral was closed all Saturday! Already in the evening, having dinner in a restaurant, I started talking with British grandmothers sitting at the next table. They said that tomorrow the royal family will fly to Palma, especially for the Easter Sunday service. We neighed in unison when I suggested that the cathedral was closed because of them. They are preparing, they say, to receive distinguished guests, cleaning, washing, cleaning!
While exploring the main attractions of Palma, I visited the royal palace of Almudaina (Palacio Real de La Almudaina). It is located next to the Cathedral. This is one of the oldest palaces in Spain. During the reign of the Moors, the palace was the residence of the Moorish viziers, and from 1230 it became the royal residence. Now it houses military services and the National Museum. In the courtyard is the Gothic Chapel of St. Anne. The royal palace is still preserved for the use of the heirs of the Spanish royal line, half of the palace is the private property of the royal family, the army is stationed here to protect the royal residence. There are no photography signs everywhere. True, I noticed them late, only when I went up to the second floor. Now I understand why the employee looked at me with such a fucking look when I took pictures with a FLASH, smiling sweetly at her. When I saw the icon that crossed out the camera symbol, I felt both ashamed and embarrassed at the same time. And the desire to take pictures on the second floor has somehow already faded away! Still, for a tourist, remorse is not the best travel companion! And the employees have nerves of steel! Such badges about the prohibition of photography are not only in the royal museum, but also in many other sightseeing objects. Everyone around is photographing together, and the guards - zero emotions. Our grandmothers-caretakers would have already devoured, like Cerberus!
Leaving the palace, I just went to wander around the old city and immediately came across the signs "Arab baths". So she walked along the arrow, admiring the old balconies along the way, the heritage of the long stay of the Moors on the island. The Banys Arabs are the most important remaining monument of Muslim rule on the island, although all that remains are two small underground chambers, one with a domed ceiling supported by a dozen columns, some of which had capitals reused from ruined Roman buildings. The baths were built in the 10th century; this is practically all that remains of the ancient city of Medina. These are characteristic baths that are found in other Islamic cities. Banys Arabs, has a semi-circular dome supported by several columns and slots for sunlight. When you wander there, you feel like you are somewhere in Morocco or another eastern country!
Then I got back on the tour bus and went to the Spanish village. Pueblo españ ol de Palma de Mallorca is an open-air park where, on an area of .6, 000 sq. meters, copies of fragments of the most famous Spanish cities from all over the country were built, ranging from typical Andalusian streets to houses in the Canary Islands. Here you can walk along the streets of Seville, Toledo and Granada and look at copies of the Myrtle Courtyard of the Alhambra, the Madrid Chapel of St. Anthony or the house of El Greco, as well as the famous Bisagra gate in Toledo. I don't know why this museum is not popular, I really liked it! But I walked there in absolute loneliness. When I first arrived, there were 3 German tourists who were drinking beer in a cafe on the "Barcelona square". But the cafe immediately closed for a siesta, and the Germans withdrew. I've been walking around there to my heart's content! And no one interfered with taking pictures!
Then I again got into a double car and went to inspect the round castle - Bellver. Castell de Bellver means "Beautiful View" and it's not a figure of speech. It is located on top of a hill at the entrance to the harbor, from where a magnificent panorama of the city of Palma opens. In the reviews of tourists, I read that someone goes up there on foot. I wouldn't. Very tiring, especially in hot weather. But going back down, if time permits, is a walk, pleasant in all respects. The slopes of the hill are a mixed forest, the vegetation is dominated by coniferous trees. But there are plenty of other flower plants, especially honey plants. Aromas are in the air - mind-blowing!
The castle-fortress has survived to our time almost unchanged. It was built in the 14th century (1300-1314) by order of James II, King of Mallorca. Bellver Castle in Palma was supposed to guard access to the bay and the city in the western part. It also served as a royal residence. From 1717 Belver served as a military prison. Later, the castle served as a mint. In 1931, according to a new project, it was transformed into the Museum of the History of the City. The building has the shape of a circle, which was decisive for its originality. Outside, it is surrounded by a moat. The inner courtyard is surrounded by cloisters, consisting of two floors. On the lower floor there are rounded arches, and on the upper floor there are pointed arches with ribbed vaults in the Gothic style. On the flat roof of the castle there is an observation deck from which you can admire the picturesque view of the city and the port.
From the castle, I wanted to go to the city on foot, but it was a catastrophic time, and the wind rose. It cooled down. Left on the last tour bus. In the evening I went to the Celler Pages restaurant serving traditional Majorcan home cooking. Here it’s more expensive than a “folk” restaurant - about 2.5 times in commercials. For an appetizer (olive-bread), tripe and entrecote in Mairok, plus 3 glasses of wine, I paid 36 €, not counting tips. The next day I had dinner on the seaside boulevard Passeig Sagrera near the building of the former Llotja stock exchange, where it is even more expensive: an appetizer, spaghetti in cuttlefish ink sauce with seafood, 3 glasses of wine, coffee and parfait - 45 €. But very, very tasty and the menu in good restaurants in Russian. This is me to the fact that you can eat in Mallorca on any budget. It can be cheaper, without frills, or it can be more expensive, with an atmosphere and a gorgeous view from the panoramic windows. It will be delicious both there and there. And what to prefer - everyone decides for himself.
In preparation for the trip, I studied the sights of Palma and the surrounding area, and was very sorry that I did not have time to take the old train to Soller, and from it - on the old tram to Port de Soller. Everything was very picturesque in the photographs from the Internet! Well, I didn’t fit into my weekend in time for everything that I planned to watch. But if a tourist wants something, if he thinks of something, who will stop him? ! After a tight forced march, by the evening I realized that I had managed to visit everything that I had planned in Palma. Well, almost everything. The Cathedral stubbornly refused to open its doors to my inquisitive nose. Yes, and figs with him, I decided it was! How many cathedrals I have seen, and how many more are yet to come! True, looking ahead, I will say that I still got into it, though on the fifth try! So, summing up a very busy sightseeing day, I suddenly realized that I could wind up in Soller! Hooray! To nature, to the city! Can't wait for the morning! All night I dreamed of the sea, seagulls and the whistle of an old train.
The first train to Soller in March will leave at 10:30, from the Ferrocarril de Só ller station, next to the square. Spain (Plaç a d'Espanya). The station for Soller is in a separate building opposite the Estació Intermodal. Carefully follow the signs so as not to waste time looking, as I did. First I went down to the Estació Intermodal ticket office and stood in line to make sure I was standing in the wrong place, in the wrong direction! True, I was not alone in my topographical cretinism! Another eight people made the same mistake. Together we rushed to the right box office. We come running, and there... the people - dear mother! And it's already 10:15! And something told me that in 15 minutes this queue would not resolve! And the next train is at 12:50! I stand, sour, I understand - half a day down the drain! In addition, leaving the hotel in Palma in the morning it was +23C. And I, after reading the reviews of tourists, in which people recommend dressing warmer, because there are drafts on the train, and it’s cooler in Soller, I recommended stocking up with windbreakers, even in summer. And I'm going in March. I am standing in a long-sleeved sweater, and even in a black one, in a vest, confidently melting from the heat, swearing that I have warmed up properly! Well, I console myself: nothing, I’ll buy a ticket for the next train, there will be time to go to the hotel, change clothes, where a light silk blouse is sad in the closet! But we must pay tribute to the Mallorcan railway workers - until the last belated tourist was rounded up, the train did not depart. And we were only 20 minutes late! But how happy I was in my long-sleeved blouse and vest! Thanks to everyone who wrote about warm things! In the train, all the windows are open, the wind is walking - be healthy. In Soller, of course, it is not much colder than in Palma, but on the coast, in Port de Soller, yes, you can feel a light sea breeze. I would have hit oak in a silk blouse there! How did it all work out so well! Well, the beauty on the way and on the spot is generally beyond praise! The train goes along mountain roads, through tunnels. The railway connecting Palma with the towns on the other side of the mountain range - Soller and Port Soller, was built more than a century ago. Old wagons are still in use, and the road runs so close to citrus orchards that it is often enough to reach out from the train window to touch the fruits of oranges and lemons. True, it is categorically not recommended to do this, because, interspersed with trees, poles also “grow” along the road. It won't take long to break your arm! From the city of Soller, an old tram runs, which connects Soller with the port. The tram schedule has been adjusted to the arrival of the train. In view of our delay, the tram was also delayed. He was served on the platform immediately upon the arrival of the train. But I decided to skip it and go on the next one, in an hour. And during this time to explore the town of Soller. The cost of a combined train + tram ticket on the route Palma-Port Soller-Palma, costs 30 € - adult. Travel time: Palma - Soller about 55 minutes, by tram Soller - Port de Soller another 20 minutes. Train and tram timetables can be found on the website: http://www.trendesoller.com/en/cms. php
The town of Soller is nothing special. I slowly walked around it, visited the local cathedral, ate ice cream - there was also time left until the next tram. All the beauties in Port de Soller! It's such a picturesque bay! Soller Port is a lovely little town nestled in one of Mallorca's most beautiful bays, shaped like a horseshoe. Surrounded by the mountains of Tramuntana, this city combines the best - a magnificent view of the mountains and the sea. There are many cafes and restaurants on the promenade where you can relax, eat the freshest seafood and enjoy beautiful views. You should definitely try freshly squeezed orange juice, it is very tasty, oranges are unusually sweet and juicy. It is those that are grown on plantations along the road. You can also ride a pleasure boat. Too bad there wasn't enough time! I love sea trips very much!
I returned to Palma on the last train. Returning from the station, I examined the parish of St. Miguel (Parroquia San Miguel), the church of St. Eulalia (Iglesia de Santa Eulà lia), wandered onto the square. Major (Plaç a Major). Interestingly, all the Mayor squares in Spain are twin sisters, well, exactly on the same face: square shape, courtyard, clear lines and the most expensive coffee in the city! So quietly I reached the cathedral. And lo and behold, it was open! And there was a festive Easter evening service, with organ music, elegant vestments and choirs! Probably not in vain I could not get there! As a reward, I received much more! Cathedral is good! Both outside and inside. Amazes with its scale and beauty! And Gaudi contributed to the design of the cathedral. He carried out the reconstruction from 1903 to 1914. His most significant contribution was the opening of many blind windows, the addition of new stained glass windows, and improved lighting. And a strange canopy hanging over the main altar. Topped with a whimsical sculpture of the crucified Christ, surrounded by the Virgin Mary and St. John, it looks like a ghost ship sailing into unknown distances. About 35 lamps hang on it. The idea of a brilliant architect, he did not bring to the end. But still beautiful!
In the remaining half a day before departure, I just walked and looked around at what I didn’t have time on the previous days. Sitting on the terrace of the Sky Bar with morning coffee, I looked at the large beautiful temple on the right and thought, what kind of cathedral is this and why have I not been there yet? After looking at the map, I found out that it is located very close, behind my hotel, in a 5-minute walk - the majestic Iglesia de la Santa Cruz. Next to it is the Museum of Modern Art Es Baluard, located in the building of a former fortress. The Es Baluard Museum today is located on the territory of a historical defensive bastion built in the 16th century and surrounded by fortress walls. Having served its intended purpose for more than 300 years, the fortification passed into private hands and was no longer used for military purposes. In 1963, the new owners planned to demolish the western wall of the bastion, but the public of Palma de Mallorca was against vandalism against the unique architectural monument, and the city administration decided to preserve the historical heritage with its further reconstruction. Over the next decades, the bastion was abandoned, and only in 1997 the city council announced a decision to place a museum of modern art in it. As a result, in January 2004, Es Baluard opened its doors to visitors. In its halls, collections of paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artistic movements are exhibited, and among the works there are works by such famous artists as Gauguin, Miro, Picasso. In addition to museum compositions, visitors have the opportunity to admire the endless expanses of the Mediterranean, opening from the main terrace of the building. On Monday, unfortunately, the museum was closed. I had to be content with a tour of the fortress and a panoramic view from its fortress walls.
There are a lot of orange trees near the fortress, a whole alley. And then I finally realized what my Mallorca smells like! It turns out that it smelled like orange blossoms. And what is surprising, on some trees ripe fruits hung, on others - only flowers, and on the third - both fruits and flowers at the same time! I have never been a fan of bright floral fragrances, with a strong smell of certain flowers. And then I really wanted to! Where can I buy perfume with the dominant scent of orange blossoms? How wonderfully these flowers smelled! Thin, elegant, fresh citrus and did not at all resemble the smell of oranges. I think they are called orange blossom.
Through the small park Feixina Park from the Es Baluard fortress in a matter of minutes you can walk to the park with the Molinos de Agua mills, they are located on Plaç a Rentadors. Mills are decorative. They say that there are many entertainments and this is a favorite vacation spot for families with children. It can be beautiful there in the evening, or on the weekend. On Monday, nothing worked and the view there was, to put it mildly, shabby. But the views from the mills are beautiful!
And next to the mills is the very beautiful church of Iglesia Sant Magi. Unfortunately, it also turned out to be closed and I had to be content with only an external inspection!
For 2.5 days off, I managed to see only a small part of this wonderful island. Approximately, like the eyes of an oriental girl, whose face is hidden under a veil. But the weekend turned out to be rich and, as I like, combined: city / nature. And most importantly, I realized that I really want to go back there! Be sure to relax by the sea! And visit Valldemossa (Valldemossa), on Cape Formentor, in the Dragon Caves! Goodbye beautiful Mallorca, see you soon!
