Weekend trip. Berlin - Magdeburg - Leipzig

01 December 2019 • Travel time: with 24 august 2019 on 26 august 2019

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August 23.2019 at my then job was announced 1 hour shorter. This was very welcome, because a few hours later that evening, the journey began! So, after finishing my work day, I came home, had dinner, packed my backpack, went to the road and went to the airport! As the Wizzair Kyiv-Berlin flight departed at 06:10, and the 92H night trolleybus was not known how and according to the schedule due to the closure of the Shuliavsky Bridge, it was decided to reach the last city trolleybus flights on August 23. The calculation, in principle, turned out to be correct, but the trolleybus №9 finished its work earlier than the appointed hour, ie from Solomianska Square to the airport "Zhulyany" we had to take a walk…

So I got to the airport five minutes before midnight. Many people in the terminal were surprised, although the next flight (Kyiv - Barcelona, Vueling) flew only at 03:55.

Also surprising was the lack of security controls at the entrance to the Zhulyan terminal (as opposed to Boryspil) and the presence of a number of people whose questionable appearance bore little resemblance to travelers. But they sat on (very uncomfortable) seats with low backs next to regular passengers. Check-in for my flight started around 03.30. Considering that 2 and 10 more Wizzair flights departed 5 and 10 minutes after mine, the terminal was very crowded.

Landing on time, the plane is standard, but with a new trend - Wizz in the 2019 season moved to the layout of the cabin with non-reclining seats. I flew four times in 2019 on this airline and all the seats were just that design. Very inconvenient. We sat down at the schedule at 07:20, the border passed quite quickly, although all passengers were forced to present a return ticket or documents from the hotel (electronic boarding and booking were suitable).

Immediately after leaving the arrival hall, I came across a car rental desk, where you could get a free public transport card. And also (for 1 euro) a very detailed map of the city, which included metro stations and city trains (although even such a map once did not help me get lost, but about those later). In Kyiv, bookstores in Berlin did not sell Berlin maps in principle, and online platforms offered a map of the German capital at completely inadequate prices - from UAH 120!

From the terminal on the covered gallery (it is impossible not to notice) I reach the platform of the city electric train (S-bahn). Since I plan to walk around Berlin all day (all one hotel stay no earlier than 3 pm), I decide to buy an unlimited ticket (zones A and B) worth 7.20 E. Sold both at the vending machine and at the box office under the platforms.

On the city train (cute red and yellow cars, very similar in shape to our subway cars, which is no coincidence - after 1945, almost all the surviving cars of the Berlin subway were exported to the USSR, where they were created several generations of subway rolling stock , working on the lines of different cities), despite the early hour of the weekend, there were many passengers.

Initially, the train passed a private low-rise suburban building, which was gradually replaced by high-rise residential areas built in the last years of the GDR (the train entered the city from the east). I got off at the Warschauer Strasse stop in the once industrial, now underground-tourist area of the East-End, near the river Spree. Immediately opposite the train station is the former old building of the famous chemical concern BASF (production of photographic film, video and audio cassettes, diskettes, etc. ).

It is clear why they closed - the production of means of registration and storage of information for the last 10-15 years has reached a qualitatively new level. But on the ground floor of the building (as is traditional in Germany for former industrial buildings) is a chain supermarket LiDL: -). There is also the terminus of the U1 underground line (Warschauer Strasse), which is a few hundred meters away to the beautiful old bridge, which in my opinion is one of the most beautiful buildings in Berlin, built before the XX century. It is called Obermaubryukke, built in 1896, partially destroyed in 1945, and then rebuilt. The bridge has 2 tiers, the lower one is motorized, the upper one is subway. The height of the bridge piers allows the passage of river vessels under it (both pleasure boats and cargo barges).

Approximately 1.5 km from the bridge to the south is in contrast to the historic architectural monument of the XXI century.

- Aluminum installation "Molecular People" by American sculptor Jonathan Borowski, which are silhouettes of three people, located relative to each other at an angle of 60 degrees and pierced by round holes, which should mean that human bodies consist of molecules. The sculptures are mounted directly in the middle of the river on stilts, their height is 30 m, and the total weight is 45 tons.

Right behind the bridge, across the former industrial zone to the north along Mulhemstrasse, will pass another landmark of Berlin, one can even say its symbol of the last 58 years - Berliner Mauer city between the two states. In the East End is its most surviving part, which has been turned into a huge graffiti museum and made a tourist attraction.

There are many tourists, mostly from Central and Southeast Asia, Europeans obviously have these moments in the history of the 20th century. already uninteresting.

From time to time along the wall (and the length of this fragment is about 1.8 km) there are souvenir and antique kiosks and layouts, where next to the standard tourist tinsel (magnets, cups, pens, caps, postcards) can flash old and new symbols of Berlin - red and green men in hats (it was in Berlin at traffic lights that silhouettes of people first appeared, which became symbols of permission and prohibition of movement), as well as a whole layer of antiques from the communist past - military clothing and hats of the second half of the 20th century. and various military paraphernalia. I don't even know who might be interested in it now

Opposite the old, on the other side of the Mulhemstrasse, many modern commercial non-residential real estate (offices, exhibition grounds) has been built, among which the dominant role is played by Mercedes Benz Arena (their analogue of our Sports Palaces).

Yes, I am gradually reaching the Ostbahnhof railway station, which stops not only S-bahn trains, but also long-distance trains, including Kyiv-Berlin (until 2013). Under the station, of course, there is a shopping center. I take the train 1 stop to Alexander-Platz. This is where the city center begins. In the square in the middle of the city is another symbol of Berlin - the Berlin TV Tower. The square is quite crowded, in addition to the subway and train, several tram routes intersect. Alexander Platz is the time of Urania - it displays the time in different time zones.

The next destination of my walk is Museum Island.

On the pedestrian street Ratausstrasse, which is partially blocked by fences due to repairs, I reach the "Red Town Hall" - the current City Hall of Berlin. Built of red brick in 1859-1861. Style - Neo-Renaissance, three-story tower is 75 meters high.

Near the leather corners of the lower tier of the tower are two sculptures of symbols of the city - brown bears. The flag of Berlin is unfurled on the mast of the tower - on a white background with two green stripes at the top and bottom is also, of course, a brown bear. Another interesting fact about the Town Hall: in 1960-1980, West Berliners called the Town Hall red not only because of its own, but also because of the color of those who worked in it - the City Hall of Communist Berlin met in the Town Hall: -)

Of course, there are many cafes and shops along the pedestrian street.

Among them, seeing the well-forgotten "Norma" (I visit Germany quite often, but the stores of this chain are not in every, even big city). The business card of the network - mixtures of fruit and berry jams - are still included in the range, prices - at the level of 2015 - 0.99 euros per 0.25 kg. It is a pity that I was on this trip only with hand luggage.

After passing through a small park overlooking the Marx-Engels-Platz with a monument to relevant historical figures, I come out on the wide Karl-Libknecht-Strasse. At this time there will be a small parade of rare, miniature and very atmospheric cars of the brand "Trabant", which in 1960-1980 was one of the symbols of the GDR. Karl Liebknecht Street will turn into the city of the same name, which leads to the Museum Island. But still on the bridge, looking to the right, my attention was drawn to a very strange structure (see photo below).

Who can learn about this building with a bright dome? Personally, she reminded me of a mosque.

The dominant building of the Island is the Berlin Cathedral (in Germany, all cathedrals in any city are called Dom). The temple impresses with its monumentality and grandeur, although part of its main facade is in scaffolding. The island is extremely crowded, many tourist buses, including

with Ukrainian numbers. There are four existing museums on the Museum Island, namely the Berlin Museum, the Old National Gallery, the Pergamum Museum and the Bode Museum. In front of the Berlin Museum is a large lawn and a beautiful fountain.

Museums were not part of my plans, and there were long queues at the entrance. I leave the Island also on the street. K. Liebknecht across the Palace Bridge, which after Palace Square will lead to the boulevard Unter der Linden.

And on the Palace Square there is a large "antique market", which is actually a "flea market" of speeches of the communist era. To the south of the Palace Square is the Temple with a very unusual green dome - it was the Church of St. Jadwiga.

So, I walk along the boulevard "Under the Lindens" (that's how its name translates), the street is wide and extremely straight, so much so that located in the future Brandenburg Gate (1.5 km long boulevard) can be seen very clearly. Do not walk the subway under the boulevard, it is under construction, but due to certain features of the soil under the boulevard (according to unofficial information, under Unter der Linden was a system of secret tunnels of the Second World War) laying the subway is difficult.

Approximately in the middle of the road is the Bebel Platz, on both sides of which are the buildings of Humboldt University.

The next turn after Bebel Platz is Friedrichstraß e, which leads to the Gendarmerie Square, where there are two very similar, almost identical cathedrals - German and French. And between them is the building of the Concert Hall (former Drama Theater).

A monument to the outstanding German playwright F. Schiller has been erected in front of the building.

The Gendarmenmarkt is a significant tourist destination - along the perimeter of the square and the surrounding streets there are many restaurants, expensive hotels, souvenir shops. Here tourists are offered to ride strange modes of transport: carriages drawn by horse-drawn carriages, an old car with spoke wheels (such a car was also called a "wheelchair" immediately after the invention).

I return to Unter den Linden.

My attention was drawn to the remaining section of the Brandenburg Gate by two other establishments - the Ampelmä nnchen store (the traffic light men I mentioned earlier) and the Digilateria café . The cafe is decorated in the style of Microsoft, and tablets are installed on each table. Here is the Brandenburg Gate.

The last quarters on both sides are almost exclusively embassies of different countries and expensive hotels. A big bike race is being prepared right next to the Gate. Surprisingly, all mature bikers (45-55 years, and even older), no young at all.

Behind the Gates I return to the Reichstag. Of course, I applied on the relevant site for a tour of the construction site or at least for the ascent to the dome, but I was denied: - Well, let's limit ourselves to the external landscape.

In front of the Reichstag building (and, as we know, the German parliament - the Bundestag) - a traditional green lawn and a complex of fountains (which is especially nice in the 35-degree heat that prevailed in those days).

Next, next to the metro station of the same name and a complex of administrative buildings, one of which is completely occupied by the office of the Chancellor (Prime Minister) of Germany Angela Merkel ...

right to the river bank. Spray. There is an artificial recreation area on the waterfront, several hundred folding chairs, many coffee shops, music playing - in short, locals are relaxing. The river in both directions every 5-10 minutes sail large ships with open upper decks, completely filled with passengers. The promenade offers great views of Berlin’s state-of-the-art Central Station and several modern exhibition centers.

The next place I want to visit is Potsdamer Platz. From the Reystag you can get to the subway, but since there is no direct line, with transfers for a very long time, I decide to take a walk, especially since it gives the opportunity to see another interesting place in Berlin - the huge Tiergarten Park.

The official entrance to the park is already closed - the territory of the park along the perimeter is fenced with a mesh fence, but the experienced tourist has nothing to stop to pass through the terrace of the summer cafe: -). Tiergarten is crossed by the June 17 carriageway with pedestrian crossings, and the park itself is so huge that the Berlin Zoo is located on its territory (occupying only about 20% of the territory).

Along the way, I will visit the ReWe chain store to replenish water supplies for tomorrow's busy day (tomorrow is Sunday, and on Sundays German retail chains have a tradition of being closed).

It's almost seven o'clock on the street, it's time to check in at the hotel, but on the way there I want to stop at the famous Kurfü rstendamm shopping street. After passing another fragment of the Berlin Wall, I dive into the slums of the Berlin underground to get on the U3 station and go in the direction I want.

After a 20-minute quest on the U3 signs and a few tips from the locals, it becomes clear that the trains of this line simply do not stop here, and the signs just lead people in a circle! Finally I see a clever sign pointing to the mountain, the next - on the opposite side of the street, in addition to the name of the next station I need direction and the distance to it in two hundred meters. Well, let's play the quest next.

In addition, let's look at another area of Berlin, which has all the hallmarks of non-standard.

The station I needed was called "Mendelssohn-Bartoldy" and was located on the street of the same name. It was named, as you may have guessed, after the same Mendelssohn who wrote the wedding march (he turned out to be a Berliner), and Bartholdi is his wife's last name, and after marriage they adopted such a common name. The street was a boulevard-like modern wide space for recreation, not even a boulevard, but a whole park.

On either side of it, of course, was a several-lane carriageway. Dwelling houses on both sides were modern 10-14 storeys, but without the standard gloomy ugliness. Each of the houses had a certain architectural detail: either a wall in the form of an inclined plane, or part of the transparent facade above the entrance, and so on. But what united them was the presence of vertical gardens on common balconies and terraces.

But in the artificial courtyards grow a few large pines, just a few meters from the windows (how they survived the construction - a mystery, we would in this case would be sure to cut down).

Meanwhile, I am already imperceptibly approaching the entrance to the specified metro station. It is located on the ground floor of a large modern hotel.

(You think I was surprised - not at all, we also have an entrance near the subway through the first floor of the house - "Golden Gate", "Contract Square", "Khreschatyk"). I calmly walk through the door into the lobby, hoping to see an escalator or stairs leading down. How could it not be! The escalator stretches upwards, to the area of the second or third floors! Honestly, a little confused - the subway inside the house? But the reality turned out to be even more interesting - the escalator takes me through the house straight to the overpass.

The metro is laid behind the houses, almost to their walls at a height of 10-15 meters. The station is modern, built no more than 10-15 years ago (probably the same age as the residential area I described earlier), decorated with a lot of glass and metal, on the floor tiles like those laid out in shopping malls.

And here is the train - also quite modern, is a solid structure, you can switch between cars, but for me a little cramped, although not many passengers. Take only one stop, then change at Gleisdreieck station.

The stairs lead uphill again, the U2 line will also run over the overpass, but higher. The Gleisdreieck station is clearly older, all the structures are made of metal rivets (ie built in the first third of the 20th century), the cars are also old versions, and the trains are very short - only 4 cars, but the platform is about a third longer.

The floor of the platform is covered with asphalt. The contrast with the U3 line is very sharp.

While I'm waiting for the train, I'm looking at the landscapes around me.

Just in front of me is a huge lawn called "Mendelssohn-Bartoldy Park": flower beds with artificial sand (for children), benches and tables under tents (for adults), mini-football fields and tennis courts (for everyone). And around the 5-6-storey residential neighborhoods of indefinite age. Here is a real non-tourist Berlin!

The train arrives. I'm going. Here I made a mistake in my logistics (probably, however, began to show signs of fatigue): instead of the station "Kurfurstendamm" went to "Kurfurstenstrasse". Don't repeat my mistake! After all, these streets do not intersect, but go almost parallel, and to move from one to another is not so easy! So I went out on Kurfü rstenstrasse.

The area is ordinary, almost deserted, without monuments, we can say "sleeping", except for houses of all ages (but mostly1950-1960's. ) Nothing is observed, even shops. I am moving in a certain direction.

Finally, something like a cult building flashed by, without identifying the religion, but the contingent nearby - mostly people of Central American appearance. Several times I saw representatives of the "oldest profession" standing near expensive cars and inviting passers-by. Probably, or take to the "secret apartments".

My path runs west, ie from the center. From time to time high-rise buildings on both sides are replaced by elegant one- and two-storey cottages, with the level of wealth, subjectively, above average.

I remember one 6-storey residential building, the inhabitants of which apparently live on the principle of collective security - on the facade from the first to the last floor there are iron bars, which prevent unauthorized entry to the balconies from the street.

Of course, at the level of the windows of the leather balcony near the lattice there is an "apartment" that closes from the middle and allows residents, for example, to admire the scenery. Just one detail - but it gives a lot of information about the safety of the area…

A few meters away is a large 12-storey multi-entrance residential complex (without thinking that such a multi-storey residential building is typical of West Germany) and several large modern hotels. Contrast at every step. Finally, I find the right "January" street - Ansbacher strasse.

It was here that I saw Berlin for the first time in 2006. It was then that the meme "Hello, sneakers" was born, now forgotten.

Well, finally I'm on the Kurfü rstendamm - the streets (or rather, boulevards) of department stores and shopping malls. Right at the beginning I see one of the two symbols of the street - the monumental 7-storey department store "KaDeWe". There are many smaller shopping malls nearby, and Chinese brands, both clothing and electronics, are often found among the signs. The vast majority of houses are modern, approximately from the 1970s. For comparison: "KaDeWe" ( Kaufhaus des Westens - Western department store) was built in 1907. In 1943, the store was partially destroyed, but on July 3.1950, 18.000 Berliners celebrated the resumption of its work.

Another street attraction is the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. During the Second World War, the church suffered severe damage, in fact, only parts of the walls and dome remained. After the war, it was decided not to rebuild it, and a modern church was built next to it.

It's late, I'm going to check into the hotel. On the way to the station I notice a very unusual fountain in Vittenberg-Platz, surrounded on all sides by sculptural groups of naked people. It looks rather outrageous, but it is still far from Vigellan Park in Oslo. It is unknown what the author wanted to say.

The nearest U2 station on the same line is Vittenberg-Platz. Drive to Kaiser-Platz. All stations are very old and authentic, there are both underground and terrestrial.

On the walls - a mosaic of tiles, the content of the drawings corresponds to the theme of the district (zoo, federal archives, Berlin radio). As it turned out, this is the oldest section of the Berlin metro (built in 1902-1908! ). By the way, no one forbids taking photos.

I leave for Kaiser-Platz in 15 minutes. This is the outskirts of Berlin, near the ring road, and behind it a suburban resort area with lakes.

Main sites: Berlin-Mitte Exhibition Center, Berlin-Funkturm Radio Tower and Berlin-ZOB Central Bus Station. The hotel I booked is called "Pension am Funkturm" and occupies several combined and rebuilt apartments on the second floor of a residential building. Took on the promotion, 95 euros for 2 nights with breakfast. I did not like: crowded, noisy (no soundproofing), mediocre breakfast, unfriendly staff. There were no fruits, vegetables (summer! ) Or hot dishes for breakfast. The only theoretically hot thing - boiled eggs - was served absolutely cold.

But on the last day, during the eviction, I, not finding anyone at the reception, went to the technical room, where the hotel staff was having lunch. There were a lot of fresh vegetables on the table. No comments.

So, after breakfast, I went to the bus station (literally opposite the hotel, you just need to cross the bridge, 7 minutes walk).

Large-scale road works were carried out in Magdeburg in the summer, so the routes of public transport were greatly changed. That's why the №10 tram I needed ran two broken rings and was connected by a temporary bus. The one-way fare was 1.40 euros. Buying tickets at the information center at Magdeburg Station.

The tram took me to the final stop Barleber See (area of large shopping malls, traditionally closed on Sundays). Then you need to walk along the sidewalk along the route, and turn right near the sand quarry (landmark - industrial excavators, it is impossible not to notice).

Of course, there was another way to get to the water bridge - bus №704 to the village of Hohenwarte, but on weekends it is very rare to go and its schedule did not suit me. After turning, walk directly to the canal. It is to simplify and reduce the connection between p.

The Elbe and the Middle German Canal, which connects the ports of Berlin and the ports of the Rhine-Ruhr region, built this marvel of engineering thought.

The fact is that in this place there is a difference in height due to the rugged terrain, and to level it cargo ships (barges) had to go a long detour. The Aqueduct Water Bridge, together with the Rothensee Gateway, significantly shortened the route and saved an hour and money. The length of the bridge is over 900 m, of which about 300 pass over water, the width of the waterway is 34 meters, the depth is 4.25 meters. Work on its construction lasted from 1998 to 2003. Its construction took 24 thousand tons of steel.

Of course, there are footpaths along the bridge, and under the bridge there are tunnels for passenger transport.

In addition to barges, pleasure boats from Magdeburg run on the bridge (the cost of the trip is 14.50 euros). A small village (with a hotel and a cafe) is located 500 meters away, without reaching the bridge, where the museum of construction of the object is located. From the tram stop to the bridge I walked for about an hour (distance, according to sensations, about 3 km), back - faster, because I already know the road. Many locals reached the bridge by bicycle, and there is a parking lot near the gateway, where many mobile vans and trailers were parked that day. On the other side of the bridge (from the village of Hohenwarte) there is also a hotel with a restaurant, as well as several huts with tables and benches for relaxation.

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Reuters Street - gives the impression of the most elegant and well-groomed, it has many shops and a small park with fountains.

Houses from the 1950s, very similar in system to houses built after the war in Kyiv on Khreshchatyk, but the dominant colors are white and gold. And of course, there are no glazed balconies and satellite dishes. On both sides of the intersection will be two 8-storey twin houses of this style. Ernest Reuter-Allee will move to the bridge of the same name, which leads to the other side of the river Elbe. To the left of the bridge (no embankment, very steep slopes) is a small park (parks - very typical of Magdeburg, it is a very green city, most of the trees - linden trees), which houses the medieval Church of St. John.

On the other side of the street, across the traditional small square with a traditional fountain and a large deer statue with a gold chain around its neck (I don't know what it means), is the historic Magdeburg Town Hall (built in the 13th century).

To the left of the Town Hall is a large sculpture of the knight Roland (an essential attribute of the city where Magdeburg law operated) and a relatively small sculpture of the "golden horseman" on a high pedestal in a barred cage (who knows, maybe really gold).

There is a Market Square near the town hall, but the surrounding houses are modern, though old-fashioned. Why the Town Hall is called historic - because to the left of it on a small square is the current City Hall (19th century building), which houses the city hall. A monument to the most famous native of Magdeburg, the physicist Otto von Guericke (famous for discovering the existence of a vacuum), has been erected in front of the current Town Hall.

On both of them there are no known monuments, mostly business centers (both completely modern and modern antiques), or government agencies. Occasionally - residential buildings. The only thing that was remembered - the Church of St.

Sebastian, surrounded by a garden of exotic trees. A photo of one of them is attached (who knows what it's called - tell me).

Well, finally at the bus station. My return FlixBus flight was delayed by as much as 30 minutes (not surprisingly, the flight departed from Saarbrü cken). New housing estates were leaving the city (apparently built in the 1980s), but they look like new ones. I don't know why - whether it is regularly painted or simply because of the cleaner European fuel of cars on the walls does not form soot? In addition, the white walls of the houses depict huge life-affirming graffiti. Goodbye, Magdeburg!

The road passed at first endless fields with high wind turbines, then drove for a long time through the woods at dusk, seeing a sign to the spa resort of Bad Basing.

It is possible that in the next visits to East Germany I will protest to myself.

Last day of travel. After check-out, head straight to the well-known bus station. Today I moved to Leipzig, from where I have a return flight to Kiev. Unfortunately, 2 months before the trip, FlixBus canceled a direct bus to Leipzig Airport on weekdays, leaving only buses to Leipzig's Hauptbahnhof. Well, it made my trip 5 euros more expensive (that's how much the train from the station to the airport costs), but it gave me 2.5 hours for a superficial acquaintance with the center of Leipzig.

First impression of Leipzig is a very large city, there are many wealthy residents and jobs, as evidenced by the presence of Chinese and Vietnamese speech layouts (in Magdeburg, this was not the case). The entire historic center of Leipzig (well preserved) is located just within the ring (Ring).

One of them was a cafe-tea shop, built a long time ago in the Indian style. After visiting LiDL, despite the terrible heat, I still reached Burgplatz, where I saw an extremely old quarter with the New Town Hall, which was crowned by a huge tower.

On the way back he passed the Church of St. Thomas, the Old Exchange, and the Museum near the Old Town Hall.

The last two establishments were located in the shopping area, which was continued by the Trade Passage (also ancient). Already at the exit from the center are located near the large modern shopping centers with essential for the cities of Germany Primark and Media Markt.

And finally, I come out again to the Station Square, which is dominated by the 29-storey building of the Marriot Hotel.

Railway ticket offices are under repair, so it's easy to buy a train ticket in the machine.

The train goes to the airport twice an hour, the duration of the trip is 14 minutes. My scheduled flight departs at 14:45, at the airport at 13:07. The first surprise at check-in is that the flight will be postponed to 15:30. Unsuspecting, after visiting the duty-free, then the border guards "closed the border" (put a stamp in the passport) and launched everyone into the drive near the gate. And here on the scoreboard new info - departure at 16:05. It is no longer possible to leave the gate, only WC and a vending machine with a single price for everything (water, Coca-Cola, chocolates, cookies, nuts - all for 3 euros).

Free water was not provided to us by the airport (although it should), the airport staff on the contrary, we have the machine even more loaded with products… And here the new departure time - 17:25. This hour was already residual, our plane landed at Leipzig airport at 17 exactly. They didn't catch up with the flight and landed in Zhulyany at 20:40. Another hour and a half away - and I'm home.

Emotions from the eastern regions of Germany are only positive.

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original