To Austria for Christmas and beyond. Day three. Linz. Traveling on a double-decker train. Part 1
Day One. Vein. Trade fairs. Introduction
Day two. Viennese environs and a few more fairs. Part 1
Second day. Viennese environs and a few more fairs. Part 2
I can't say that the idea of visiting Linz was fundamental to this trip. But when I saw that the alternative train company WESTbahn has a special offer that allows you to buy tickets at a price of 4.99 euros, then there was nothing more to think about - it was necessary to “catch” tickets, the sale of which at this price began 30 days before the planned date. The only caveat is that initially they thought to go on Sunday, but if in the morning there were a lot of tickets at a pleasant price, then for a return to Vienna in the evening, prices started from 20 euros per ticket. Accordingly, the trip, for obvious reasons, moved to Monday. : ))
So, the WESTbahn has two routes in Vienna: via the Central railway station Wien Hauptbahnhof, near which we live, and via the Western railway station Wien Westbahnhof. We, of course, choose the route that is closer to us. In addition, the train starts from the WIEN PRATERSTERN station (the departure time from this station is indicated on the ticket), and the train arrives at the Central Railway Station later and, accordingly, we can sleep longer. By the way, on the way back, the situation was somewhat reversed - although the train went to WIEN PRATERSTERN, our tickets indicated WIEN MEIDLING as the arrival station, which was a stop earlier than we needed. But as the conductor, whom we asked how we can get to the central railway station in this case, said: “At this train! It's one price for all! ". : )
And here we are at the station! And even on the right platform. They arrived, of course, 20 minutes early. ; ) During this time, about 15 different trains passed by us, and finally, ours - in a green stripe and double-decker! ; ) Seats are not indicated on the tickets, so we choose from the remaining free ones, and there are not so many of them left for our station.
We are located on the second floor - the view is better from there. : )) On the way, we don't have too many stops, and the speed of the train is impressive - up to 200 km / h, although this is not felt at all. And after an hour and a half we are in Linz.
Today it is the third largest city in Austria. Its history dates back to the ancient Celtic settlement of Lentos, renamed Lencia by the brave Romans, who made it their outpost in 15 BC. e. From the 15th century, Linz became the capital of Upper Austria and in the period 1489-1493. served as the residence of Emperor Frederick III. Further from the XVIII century. in Linz, the textile industry is developing, as well as the salt trade, which makes it possible to consider the city a major industrial center by the beginning of the 20th century. Then there are the sad pages of history during the Second World War and the Anschluss, when Linz is called the "city of the Fuhrer", whose young years of life were spent here and who, in connection with this, dreamed of making Linz an exemplary city of the Reich. Now it is a modern industrial city, which also pays significant attention to cultural development - in 2009 Linz was named the European Capital of Culture.
We decide to get to the historic center on foot, but if you want to use public transport, all information about routes and tickets can be found here. The decision to take a walk comes from the fact that the first Christmas market, Volksgarten, is located a 5-minute walk from the station, which we pass on the way to the center.
The weather, of course, is never winter - flowerbeds with ornamental cabbage rather resemble October. . .
. . . but the presence of nativity scenes stubbornly indicates the approach of Christmas.
Moreover, the nativity scenes are very diverse - here is one installed near the Linz casino (nice neighborhood):
Further along the Landstraß e (Landstraß e), whichis first mentioned in the 13th century as Lintzam. . .
. . . we enter the Main Square (Hauptplatz), which is considered one of the largest in Austria and occupies 13.200 square meters. m.
In the center of the square there is a traditional white marble column of the Holy Trinity, erected in 1723, which is very difficult to see because of the houses the central Christmas market of Linz (Christkindlmarkt). It is said that after the construction of this column, the governor was terribly dissatisfied with the waste and arranged a check on the expenditure of funds. So the issues of corruption and embezzlement of public funds are not a new story in our world and are popular not only in our area. ; )))
But it's too early for the market, so we decide to climb Pö stlingberg (Pö stlingberg) and look at the city from the heights, so to speak.
You can get up there on the Pö stlingbergbahn (Pö stlingbergbahn) tram, which today is considered one of the steepest tram lines in the world - the train moves under a slope of more than 11% and overcomes a height of 255 m. Tickets for this We bought the tram at the information center on the Main Square, but they need to be composted at the validator located next to the tram stop.
Yes, and another feature of Linz is that almost everywhere in the buildings here, doors automatically open, from the information center to the New Cathedral. At first, it was dumbfounding (it was not always possible to jump back in time), so it was frightening, then we got used to it, and when we had to open the door on our own, it somehow strained us. ; )))
The information center is located in the building of the Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus), built in the Gothic style in 1513. Later, the Town Hall was rebuilt in the Baroque style in 1658, and only the bell tower was preserved from the old building, where various melodies are performed three times a day. Unfortunately, we didn't find any. Now the city hall sits in the Old Town Hall and the museum "Origin of Linz" is located.
And we jump into the tram and climb the mountain, which takes about 15-20 minutes.
Nice houses are floating outside the window - this area is considered very prestigious in Linz.
Even apartment buildings look unusual and pretty here.
On the mountain, either because of the weather, or because of Monday, there are practically no people. Therefore, you can admire the opening views in silence and solitude.
As well as a family of deer unexpectedly encountered on the way.
Wandering along deserted paths. . .
. . . we rise to the observation deck. Given the fog, the views, of course, are not great, but there is a certain charm in them.
You just need to understand that the landscape opens not in winter, but rather in autumn.
Even so, you can see the smoking chimneys of factories on the outskirts, which also serve as the personification of the industrial side of Linz.
Next, we turn around to climb to the very top to the Temple of the Pilgrims.
And this is where the perfect photo with the cat should have appeared.
Because on our way a gnome appeared under an umbrella (in the sense, a garden sculpture, and not what you thought - we didn’t even take mulled wine in our mouths), which pointed with a finger at a plump cute cat (alive) sitting next to it.
And at that moment, when I saw this idyllic picture and aimed my camera at it, my husband, who doesn't always talk to people, decided to chat with a cat. To which he reacted in the most natural way - he decided to come closer to us, why shout at the whole mountain in vain ? ! And that's what I ended up with instead of the perfect photo "Gnome with a cat".
Yeah, that's right - "Dwarf with... the rear guard of the cat. "
Okay, let's go. As an alternative, I can offer the "Five-Star Saint" - John of Nepomuk. By the way, it was surprising for me to meet his faces quite often on this trip in Austria - usually he is actively revered in the Czech Republic.
And finally, the pilgrimage Basilica of the Seven Sorrows of Mary (Pö stlingbergkirche), which has been located here since the 18th century. More than 300 years ago, one of the lay brothers from the Capuchin monastery in Urfare brought a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary to the Pö stlinberg mountain, with which miraculous healings were later associated and to which pilgrims began to flock in connection with this. As a result, at first a wooden church was built on this site, and then a stone building was erected with donations from the laity. The church acquired its modern baroque appearance in 1748, then it was consecrated.
Actually, this is where our walk ends, and we are on the same tram. . .
. . . we go down to the city, but we leave before reaching the Main Square - we want to look at the New Town Hall. . .
. . . and the Nibelung Bridge (Nibelungenbrü cke) (I don't know why the bridge in the Austrian city has such an exotic name).
And admire the views of the old city across the river, and the Linz Castle (Linzer Schloss), which stands on the hill where the above-mentioned Fort Lence used to be located.
Now The Upper Austrian State Museum is working in the Castle, but we decide not to go there go - reluctance to drag uphill. We are here in the vicinity of the Main Square, we will walk, in the narrow streets we will take a look at the beauty.
To the left of the Altermarkt Square, Altstadt(Altstadt) street, whichis a symbol of the historical center of Linz, although it is only 170 m long, goes. The first mention of it dates back to 1334, now there are many old buildings on it, and in the evening it is the center of the city's nightlife.
I wonder where that street leads to? We should have a look. . . Well, of course, to the Castle! Like it or not, we still climbed up. : ))
In principle, there is not much left of the building - it was badly damaged during a fire back in 1800, then the hospital located here also did not contribute to restoration. Now the Castle is a symbiosis of ancient ruins and modern architectural solutions.
The best-preserved parts are the Rudolf Castle Gate (Rudolfstor) built in 1600 and the Friedrich Gate (Friedrichstor) of the 15th century, above which the letters “A. E. I. O. U” can be seen – the whole world is subject to Austria (Alles Erdreich ist Oesterreih untertaten).
And since we have climbed the mountain, we will walk to the oldest functioning church in Austria - St. Martin's Church , the construction of which dates back to the 8th century.
During the last restoration in the 20th century, a Celtic hall from the time of the Carolingians, an ancient stove and plates with Roman texts were found here. But during our visit, the church is closed, so we can only be content with an external inspection.
Next we go down the hill, passing the local theater. . .
. . . and heading to another castle in Linz - Landhaus (Linzer Landhaus), which was built by the city guild according to the Canevale project in 1568–58. on the site of the Minorite monastery, most of which was destroyed during the reconstruction of the building. Now the regional parliament of the province of Upper Austria sits here.
According to legend, the castle is also inhabited by the spirit of the bloody Countess Ezhebet Bathory, who died 400 years ago. ; ))) And from November 4 to November 9.1805, Napoleon lived in the captured Landhaus. All in all, a popular place! : ))
The northern gate (Nordportal) of the Landhaus was created in 1565-1566 in the image and likeness of the Swiss gate of the Vienna Hofburg, built ten years earlier. In principle, I did not find much similarity, but perhaps this is because I did not really look for it. The Nordportal, made of red marble, is considered one of the most important Renaissance gates in Austria. Three coats of arms are depicted on the parapet under their window. The right one is the symbol of the first princely dynasty of Austria (976-1246) - the Babenbergs, the central one is the coat of arms of Upper Austria, and the left one is of Lower Austria.
In one of the three courtyards of the Landhaus (it is open to the public, unlike the other two), there is a fountain of the Planets (Planetebrunnen) by P. Guet. The bronze sculptural group depicts six planets discovered by the 16th century. The fountain serves as a memorial to the astronomer and mathematician Johannes Kepler, who taught at the Linz Protestant school located here for 14 years.
The Arkadenhof, the historic arcaded courtyard of the Landhaus (Arkadenhof des Landhauses), hosts classical chamber concerts. Well, now, according to the time, the tents of the next Christmas market and the nativity scene are being set up.
At the exit from the South Gate, you can see the results of excavations carried out in 2007-2009. (they are fenced with glass shields), and, in particular, a completely preserved baroque stone bridge, which was filled in 1801 along with the moat, and whose existence was simply forgotten.
On the Promenade street in front of the Landhaus, you can also see a monument to the famous writer and poet Adalbert Stifter, who is considered a classic of Austrian literature.
There are 2 more sights of Linz near Landahus and one of them is Mozart's house. It is believed that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart composed his Linz Symphony (Symphony No. 36) in just three days at the request of the owner of the house, Count Josef Thun, with whom he was visiting in 1783.
Near the entrance to the building there is a bust of the famous composer and the history of the creation of the symphony, which you can also listen to here by clicking on the corresponding button. ; )
Opposite the Mozarthaus rises the Minoritenkirche (so to speak, the remains of the Minorite monastery on the site of which the Landhaus was erected), founded in 1236. Later, the church was rebuilt several times and acquired its current appearance in 1751 thanks to the efforts Johann Matthias Krinner. The interior decoration of the Church of the Little Brothers was created by Kaspar Modler (stucco work), Bartolomeo Altomonte (altar paintings) and Johann Martin Schmidt (side altar work).
A feature of almost all local churches and cathedrals is the almost complete absence of lighting, so you have to inspect their interior decoration in semi-darkness. The photo quality is appropriate. : )))
In the Old Cathedral (Alter Dom) the situation is similar - almost nothing is visible, but the doors open automatically! ; ))) Outwardly, the Old Cathedral, built in 1669-1683. in honor of the founder of the Jesuit order, St. Ignatius, looks very modest and is easily recognizable by the green color of the facade. By the way, the church was consecrated even before the completion of work in 1678
But I would like to consider the interior decoration in the Baroque style in more detail - columns of pink marble, and columns with intricate carvings, the altar cloth "Saint Alois" by the famous Italian Belucci, but here it happened.
Next, according to the plan, we have the next interesting church. . .
. . . but we decide to take a break and enjoy food not only spiritual. Therefore, I will interrupt my story for a while.
