Our path to the origins of Christianity. Part 3
Our path to the origins of Christianity Part 3 Day 5 Surroundings of Yerevan: - Etchmiadzin - Zvartnots - Khor Virap According to the program “Visit to the Cathedral of Etchmiadzin and the treasury. Continuation of the tour to the ruins of Zvartnots (7th century). We continue the excursion to the Ararat valley. Visit to Khor Virap Monastery (4th - 17th centuries), which is located 45 km from Yerevan. Breakfast. Breakfast for me is pastries, jam, muesli, but for my husband, on the contrary, it is more substantial. Breakfasts were decent everywhere, but in Yerevan we were fed with amazing scrambled eggs with tomatoes and zucchini, and they couldn’t tear me away from the vases with walnut and dogwood jam. I later bought walnut, but there was no such dogwood with berries, only in the form of jam. First, we are taken to Tsitsernakaberd, that is the name of the monument to the victims of the Armenian genocide of 1915. It was erected in 1967 on the top of a hill on the Tsitsernakaberd plateau. This is a mausoleum of 12 pylons located in a circle, an eternal flame burns inside the mausoleum, and mournful melodies sound. The mausoleum is decorated with a high obelisk cut into two unequal parts (symbolizing the division of Eastern and Western Armenia) - a symbol of the revival of the Armenian people, it can be seen from anywhere in the city. We go to the mausoleum along a long alley planted with fluffy Christmas trees, which were planted by all sorts of different famous people and presidents. Herringbone Kuchma immediately from the edge. After perestroika, a museum was made here, very laconic and worthy. There we had an excursion, an elderly guide, what a miracle woman, she told amazingly where the current artists are! Although we learned terrible things there, I think it is necessary to go there. I have a friend who is an Armenian from Baku. Back in 1915, during the massacre, her great-grandmother died, and in our time, during the pogroms of Armenians in Baku in the late 80s, her own aunt died, and her cousin and her family were taken out of the city in an armored personnel carrier at night and miraculously saved... People should know and treat correctly to such things. Then our path lies to Khor Virap - the most famous place, because Ararat, the symbol of Armenia, is perfectly visible from there. . And we saw him! Without clouds, both Ararats (Sis and Masis) are practically visible, and up to the very snowy top, which is rarely shown. Looking at these peaks, I understand that we have seen the most important thing to see in Armenia. Lucky. In addition, a beautiful view of the entire Arart valley. The border with Turkey is clearly visible, and unexpectedly there is an eyewitness among us - a former gallant border guard who served here in 88. He explains and shows us everything. Then he recalled with great warmth how well the local population treated them. On the way to Khor Virap, we passed through the territory where the ancient capital of Armenia, the city of Artashat, was. This is the Ararat valley. From above it is very beautiful. Every Armenian knows about the monastery of Khor Virap. This fortress monastery is a place of pilgrimage, it is one of the most revered places in Armenia, sacred to the Armenian Apostolic Church. The monastery was built in the period from the 6th to the 17th centuries above the dungeon, where the baptist of Armenia, St. Gregory the Illuminator, languished for the spread of Christianity. Then Tsar Trdat adopted this religion as a state religion, and Gregory was released. "Khor Virap" means "deep pit". According to legend, St. Gregory the Illuminator was in this pit for 13 years. The dungeon pit has also been preserved. It has a diameter of 4.4 m and a height of 6 m. And there is even a ladder. In the 7th century, Catholicos Nerses built a white limestone chapel over the prison cellar, which was later destroyed, and now instead of it, the Church of St. Astvatsatsin (17th century). The monastery of Khor Virap had a theological seminary and the residence of the Armenian Catholicoses. Khor Virap, Ararat made a great impression on me, much more than the famous Etchmiadzin, where we went later. Although the Cathedral of Etchmiazdin is amazing. Echmiadzin is located in the city of Vagharshapat, then it was called Echmiadzin. The pointer was strange - a golden hand with folded fingers for blessing. Echmiadzin is a whole separate city, which was even one of the capitals of Armenia in the II-IV centuries. After the adoption of Christianity in Armenia in 301. King Trdat III destroyed the pagan temple in Vagharshapat and founded the Cathedral of St. Etchmiadzin in its place. "Echmiadzin" in Armenian means "the Only Begotten descended", that is, Jesus Christ. And since then, Holy Etchmiadzin has been the sanctuary of the Armenian Apostolic Church, revered by Armenians all over the world, it is such an Armenian Vatican, the religious and spiritual center of the whole country. Here, on a well-groomed area of .60 thousand square meters. meters are located - the Cathedral of St. Echmiadzin, the Theological Academy of St. Echmiadzin, the current residence of the Patriarch - the Catholicos of all Armenians, the Synod of the Armenian Church, the library and book depository, the monastery. The territory is large, to see everything you need at least half a day. Everything is well-groomed, green, beautiful, in flowers. But the Cathedral in the forests is a restoration, we went inside, there, of course, it is amazingly beautiful and majestic. Then we went to the treasury, the girl told us everything, however, at a fast pace, but there are such exhibits! And a piece of Noah's ark, and a spear with which they pierced Christ, and a kneecap of John the Baptist, and a particle of the Tree of the Cross on which Jesus was crucified, and what extraordinary thick old handwritten books! But time! So little time… And the chairs of the 17th century Catholicoses, decorated with mother-of-pearl and ivory, heads and paws of lions cast from silver! Garik said that this is the only educational institution in the world where Armenians from all over the world study for five years, who want to devote themselves to the service of the Armenian Church. In 2001, in honor of the 1700th anniversary of the adoption of Christianity, a new monument, the “Open Altar”, was opened in front of the entrance to the monastery complex. Modern, but in the Armenian spirit. Then the Catholicos of All Armenians Garegin II and Pope John Paul II served on it. We also saw two ancient khachkars: XIII and XVII centuries. Both are covered with complex ornaments and images of animals and birds. And a more modern, but no less beautiful khachkar monument to the Armenian victims of the 1915 genocide. Then we go to the ruins of the Zvartnots temple, it is 5 km from Etchmiadzin. The huge temple was built in the 7th century, but completely destroyed by a powerful earthquake in the 10th century, now it is ruins, but very majestic. Huge stone slabs with carved ornaments and figures have been preserved. Now the territory of Zvartnots is an archaeological reserve and a museum opened in 1937, there is a cool model of the temple, which, unexpectedly for everyone, Garik divided into 2 halves and you could see what was inside. Returning to Yerevan, Garik still conducts a bus survey, drop off those who wish at the souvenir market, the rest go to the hotel. After the traditional dinner in our room, we go for a walk, according to the plan we have to go to the Matenadaran, walk along the boulevards and go to the supermarket to buy food and tasty souvenirs. We climbed to the Matenadaran, it was deserted and cool, we bought souvenirs, but our feet themselves carried us to the Cascade, it was very beautiful and cozy there. On the way, they found a monument to the film "Men", this is not only a sculptural group of the main characters, but also a plate on which the names of the filmmakers are immortalized. Here, according to legend, the Apostle Thaddeus brought a spear with which a Roman soldier pierced the heart of the crucified Christ, the so-called Spear of Destiny (the spear is kept in Etchmiadzin, we saw it). The main church is Katoghike and two intra-rock churches - Avazan and St. Mother of God. The walls of Katoghike are stone cliffs, and the inside is very richly decorated with sculptures and carvings. On one side of the temple, two doors lead directly into the depths of the cliff to churches carved inside the rocks. It is in them that the most interesting thing is located - the interiors, entirely carved into the rock. In the Church of Avazan, there are two shallow pools with running spring water against the wall. You can go and get some water, but you will get your feet wet. In the second church there is an unusual bas-relief: the head of a bull holding a chain, which covers the necks of two lions. Between the lions, below is an eagle carrying a lamb in its claws. Another wall is decorated with a large ornamented cross. I really like Armenian churches. And Georgian too. Together with us at the same time they conduct an excursion for a German group. A concert was ordered for them inside the church, 5 women in national costumes sang. Garik conferred with the German guide and said that we could also listen if we stood quietly along the wall. The concert was amazing! Absolutely amazing acoustics and great performance of great melodies. But, of course, it's time for us to go. Then we drive to the Garni complex. These are the ruins of a fortress with powerful walls, the remains of a palace complex, Roman baths with preserved ancient mosaics on the floor and a temple in which the sun god Mithra was worshipped. The view from there is simply fantastic, however, the view is fantastic everywhere - wherever you look. The Ararat valley is clearly visible, but Ararat is closed today, and the mountains are just pink! The fortress of Garni is one of the clearest evidence of the ancient culture of the pre-Christian period of Armenia. Mosaic floors have been preserved in Roman baths. The mosaic is laid out on lime mortar from the smallest gemstones. The consciousness of the deep antiquity of these paintings is simply mesmerizing. The Temple of the Sun in Garni looks very similar to the famous Temple of Athena in Greece. The temple inside is luxurious, decorated with ornaments carved in stone (grapes, pomegranate) and bas-reliefs. In the 17th century, a strong earthquake destroyed the temple, but in 1966-1976 the temple was restored in its original form, and although some elements were replaced with modern ones, they were replaced very successfully. We are slowly saying goodbye to Armenia. We are going to Lake Sevan, not suspecting what awaits us. For me personally, Lake Sevan was a great shock and surprise. It is truly breathtakingly beautiful. On the way, we learn that Lake Sevan is one of the largest high-altitude freshwater lakes in the world, the second lake in the world in terms of fresh water reserves, and also the largest in the Caucasus. This real miracle of nature is located in the very center of the Armenian Highlands, in a huge mountain bowl framed by picturesque mountain ranges at an altitude of 1900 m. Sevan is fed by 28 rivers, and only one flows out - Hrazdan. They say that the climate around Sevan is excellent. No matter how hot it is in the valley, it is always cool here. The water temperature in summer reaches 18-20C. There are many rest houses, boarding houses, people here are happy to relax, well, who can afford it. But we are somehow even cold. We land down at the landing, where there are a huge number of stalls with souvenirs (beads, Turks, belts, bracelets, etc. ), and climb up the stairs, gradually pulling on additional sweaters, buttoning jackets, wrapping scarves around... Wind! On the mountain rises the medieval monastery of Sevanavank, you know, the IX century. , a unique style of Armenian architecture. Now it is only a few small churches and the remains of cells. But, unfortunately, our acquaintance with the monastery is interrupted by a cheerful wedding. With whoops and horns, the first car appears with a stuffed fox on the hood. The sight is not for the faint of heart. It turns out that this fox brings good news! Then the bride and groom and numerous guests appear. Therefore, we managed to look into the church, but it is immediately packed with guests. We consider the audience. The outfits on the ladies are also very, very... Hefty beautiful. But we are not upset, we leave the monastery and enjoy the majestic and severe Sevan. From Sevan, as yesterday from Ararat, it is impossible to take your eyes off. . . Again, we load half an hour on the bus, someone suddenly decides to get acquainted with souvenirs, someone is even hungry and goes to a cafe... But the time of a tourist in such a busy tour is worth its weight in gold! On this day, I calculated (out of harm, and such a profession) that the delays in each loading on the bus (and there were 4 of them) amounted to 4 * 15 (20) = 60 (80) minutes. And this is an extra hour with a little walk in the evening Tbilisi, by the way. Finally, everyone is on the bus, moving to the border. We pass the control quickly, change the rest of the dramas for whatever we want, we personally have a few kopecks left as a souvenir. We say goodbye to Garik, thank him from the bottom of our hearts, it’s good that the girls have some small souvenirs, they give them to Garik. Somehow we got used to such excursion support, and it was a pity that we didn’t prepare and didn’t save a souvenir or a book about Ukraine for the guide. We assure Garik that we are now passionate admirers of his small country and will agitate tourists to come here. Garik will be taken home by friends who are traveling from Tbilisi. Yesterday I told my classmate about the trip on the phone. She interrupts me: “In 1982 I went to Tsakhkadzor and its environs! I fell in love with Armenia forever! I envy you! " Unfortunately, independent tourism to Armenia is either expensive or difficult. Plane tickets are very expensive, and the border is only the one through which we traveled. But the transport runs, you can get there. Georgia is now hyped, in vogue, and thanks to Wizz you can buy cheap tickets. But Armenia is worth visiting! By the way, my husband liked Yerevan much more than Tbilisi. And then, discussing the tour on the bus, many said that Armenia unexpectedly shocked and surprised them. We arrived in Tbilisi in the dark, although not very late, at 8 pm. Quickly take a shower, change clothes, well, have a snack, drink tea. By the way, we bought a gata in Armenia - such a huge cake with curd filling (we wanted with a nut, but they didn’t understand us). Divided into 4 parts, but my husband and I ate one for two, and brought the second home. That is, after 4-5 days, the taste and freshness were not affected. We have a new hotel in Tbilisi, not far from Rustaveli Street, but we want to take a different route, see the old streets. Our path lies in the old city, but we never reached it, while wandering around, we were very tired. I must say that if it were not for the presence of a man in our little company, our campaign would not have been successful. Firstly, he perfectly orients himself on the terrain even without maps and in the dark, and secondly, on those streets where we wandered, it was, frankly, unpleasant. And it was impossible to go down into the passage to cross the avenue - and it was impossible to think. Creepy. On the streets, in restaurants, cafes, mostly men of Caucasian (and there are no others here) appearance and in black clothes... Although, of course, walking the streets is quite safe. We are such cowards. We sat on the boulevard under the monument to Pushkin, and once again ran through Rustaveli. This time, they looked at and photographed small figures, of which there are countless numbers all over the avenue. Very touching… On Rustaveli we went to the supermarket to inquire. You can buy local wine, cognac, suluguni. By the way, the lemonade didn't impress me. These are not the famous Lagidze Waters. Dairy products of local production. I bought matsoni, but no one could drink it - sour! Although the quality is quite natural. At home, the cat drank it with great pleasure. Cereals, sweets, cookies - everything is imported, sweets are mostly Ukrainian. German chocolate, but expensive. I wandered along jams and sauces, and my husband studied cognacs and wine. Exotic jam - walnut, quince, fig, dogwood. Fruits are all very tasty, for apples, pears, persimmons, quince prices are the same, about 10-12 UAH. Grapes are cheaper - 8, unusually tasty. Very cheap pomegranate - 10 UAH, but I'm indifferent to it. But we tried raw uchabi, we sell it only dried from Uzbekistan. I asked one saleswoman: “What kind of fruit is this? ” She is in Russian - alas! The second smiled and said: “Study, but what do you call it? ” Then she suggested that we just try, as in the bazaar: “You try, try! ” Unfortunately, it quickly deteriorates, probably, Georgian housewives are doing something with it. And they also have an unusually large and tasty hawthorn. The figs have already moved away, although we managed to taste the green, and we saw blue on the trees. And how beautiful the pomegranate and quince trees are! What a pretty persimmon tree!
